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Straightforward · 19.0 litres · Traditional mead

Traditional mead

Honey and water and nothing else, which makes the honey the whole wine and staged nutrient the whole technique. Get the nutrient wrong and you will spend two years waiting for it to become drinkable.

Starting sugar

20.9 Brix

4.32 kg of fermentable sugar

Original gravity

1.087

from the ingredients, not asserted

Finishing gravity

0.995

dry

Alcohol

12.1%

Brix alone predicts 11.5 to 12.5%

Residual sugar

0 g/L

approximate, from gravity

Ready after

6 months

best around 5 years

Made to Traditional mead, and every computed figure lands inside the published range for it.

ABV inTA inpH inRS in

What decides this wine

Nitrogen, in stages. Honey has almost none, and an unfed mead produces hydrogen sulphide within days and then needs two years to become drinkable. Staggered nutrient additions and a temperature below 20C are what separate a good mead from the reputation mead has.

What goes in

IngredientWeightSugarVolumeShare of sugar
Honey

Never boil it. Everything you paid extra for a varietal honey to get is volatile, and boiling removes all of it.

5.40 kg4.32 kg3.78 L100%
Yeast nutrient

In four doses, not one: at pitch, at 24 hours, at 48 hours and at a third sugar depletion. This is the single most important line in the recipe.

30 g--0%
Water, to volume--15.20 L-

The ingredients contribute 3.8 litres and the water makes up the rest to 19 litres. Those figures are checked against each other when the site is built, because a recipe whose volumes do not add up produces a wine weaker or stronger than every number above.

Acid and sulphite

Acidity of the must

5.0 g/L

at pH 3.50

No malolactic

5.0 g/L

the acidity you measure is the acidity you keep

Tartaric to add

10 g

to reach 5.5 g/L. Bench trial before treating the batch

Sulphite at bottling

1.5 g

potassium metabisulphite, for 45 mg/L free SO2 at pH 3.55

The batch

Must volume
19 L
Ferment at
16-19 C
Molecular SO2 target
0.8 mg/L
Malolactic
No
Yeast
D47 for meadto 15%, medium N

The sulphite figure is worked out against the pH of the finished wine, not of the must. Malolactic and deacidification both raise pH, and dosing a finished red to its must pH under-protects it by roughly a third. Recompute for your own reading.

Method

  1. 01Warm the honey gently to make it pour, and stir it into cool water until fully dissolved. Do not heat it further.
  2. 02Take a gravity reading and aerate the must thoroughly before pitching.
  3. 03Pitch D47 and hold it below 19C. Above 20C this strain makes fusel alcohol that takes a year to fade.
  4. 04Add nutrient in four doses over the first third of the fermentation, degassing each time.
  5. 05Rack at dryness, top up completely, and sulphite.
  6. 06Bulk age six months minimum. It changes more in the first year than any other wine here.

The two instruments this recipe needs

Every number on this page came from a hydrometer reading and a pH reading. Without those two you are following a recipe rather than making a wine, and the sulphite figure in particular is meaningless without a pH you have actually measured.

Measuring

Hydrometer and trial jar

SOLIGT Triple Scale Hydrometer and Glass Test Jar for Wine, Beer, Mead & Cider - ABV, Brix and Gravity Test Kit

$18.98

Tracks the ferment from must to dry. The gap between your starting and finishing gravity is the only reliable way to know the alcohol you actually made.

Measuring

pH meter

Apera Instruments AI1113 pH Calibration Buffer Solution Kit (7.00, 4.00), 8 oz. Each

$18.00

The most important instrument on this page. pH decides how much of your sulphite is actually protecting the wine, and dosing without knowing it is guesswork.