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First batch · 19.0 litres · Flower wine

Elderflower wine

The flower brings aroma and absolutely nothing else, so the sugar, acid, tannin and nutrient are all things you add. Made in June, drunk the following summer, and it tastes like the hedge it came from.

Starting sugar

19.7 Brix

4.06 kg of fermentable sugar

Original gravity

1.082

from the ingredients, not asserted

Finishing gravity

1.002

medium

Alcohol

10.5%

Brix alone predicts 10.9 to 11.8%

Residual sugar

18 g/L

approximate, from gravity

Ready after

6 months

best around 2 years

Made to Flower wine, and every computed figure lands inside the published range for it.

ABV inTA inpH inRS in

What decides this wine

Picking on a dry, sunny morning and using the flowers within hours. Elderflower aroma collapses within a day of picking, and washing the heads takes most of it with the water. Shake the insects out instead.

What goes in

IngredientWeightSugarVolumeShare of sugar
Elderflower

About a litre of loosely packed florets. Use the flowers only: any green stalk makes it bitter, and the difference is not subtle.

60 g--0%
White sugar3.50 kg3.50 kg2.21 L86%
White grape concentrate0.60 kg0.41 kg0.46 L10%
Raisins

Chopped, for body.

0.25 kg0.15 kg-4%
Wine tannin4 g--0%
Yeast nutrient12 g--0%
Water, to volume--16.30 L-

The ingredients contribute 2.7 litres and the water makes up the rest to 19 litres. Those figures are checked against each other when the site is built, because a recipe whose volumes do not add up produces a wine weaker or stronger than every number above.

Acid and sulphite

Acidity of the must

6.5 g/L

at pH 3.30

No malolactic

6.5 g/L

the acidity you measure is the acidity you keep

No acid adjustment

none

to reach 6.5 g/L. Bench trial before treating the batch

Sulphite at bottling

1.0 g

potassium metabisulphite, for 29 mg/L free SO2 at pH 3.35

The batch

Must volume
19 L
Ferment at
16-20 C
Molecular SO2 target
0.8 mg/L
Malolactic
No
Yeast
Cote des Blancsto 14%, medium N

The sulphite figure is worked out against the pH of the finished wine, not of the must. Malolactic and deacidification both raise pH, and dosing a finished red to its must pH under-protects it by roughly a third. Recompute for your own reading.

Method

  1. 01Pick on a dry morning when the heads are fully open and smell strongly. Shake them out; do not wash them.
  2. 02Strip the florets from every scrap of green stalk. This is tedious and it is the whole recipe.
  3. 03Dissolve the sugar and concentrate in warm water, top up cold to volume, and add the citric or tartaric acid your reading calls for.
  4. 04Add the florets, tannin and nutrient, and pitch once the must is below 25C.
  5. 05Strain the florets out after three days, then ferment out in a carboy.
  6. 06Stabilise, back-sweeten lightly, and bottle. Drink it the following summer.

The two instruments this recipe needs

Every number on this page came from a hydrometer reading and a pH reading. Without those two you are following a recipe rather than making a wine, and the sulphite figure in particular is meaningless without a pH you have actually measured.

Measuring

Hydrometer and trial jar

SOLIGT Triple Scale Hydrometer and Glass Test Jar for Wine, Beer, Mead & Cider - ABV, Brix and Gravity Test Kit

$18.98

Tracks the ferment from must to dry. The gap between your starting and finishing gravity is the only reliable way to know the alcohol you actually made.

Measuring

pH meter

Apera Instruments AI1113 pH Calibration Buffer Solution Kit (7.00, 4.00), 8 oz. Each

$18.00

The most important instrument on this page. pH decides how much of your sulphite is actually protecting the wine, and dosing without knowing it is guesswork.